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Materials used:
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Scrap pieces of Laminate flooring.
Double sided turners tape. |
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Tools used:
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6" dial caliper.
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Band saw.
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Router table and bits.
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Drill press and bits.
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1. Stack 3 pieces of Laminate flooring
and an original insert plate with double sided tape between each of the pieces. |
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2. Trim excess material away
from original insert on the band saw. Leave about 1/8th inch around the edges. |
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3. Using a pattern makers flush trim
bit in the router table, set the height so that the bearing runs against the edge of the original insert. Trim excess material away from the laminate pieces, leaving them the exact same size as the original insert. |
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4. Use your drill press with a
7/32nds drill bit to drill a hole through all 3 pieces of laminate in the location of the original inserts hold down screw. |
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5. Using a dial caliper, measure the thickness of
the laminate pieces and the depth of the shelf in your table saw where the insert sits. The laminate that I am using is .330" thick and the shelf is .230" below the table surface. The width of the shelf is .600". These measurements are for the Ridgid TS 2400, older gray model. For any other brand or model of table saw you will need to take your own measurements. |
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6. Set the depth and width of
your rabbiting bit in your router table according to the measurements of your table saw. I used my Woodcraft bit without any bearing to get the width I needed and set the cutter height at .1". Rout a rabbit all the way around the bottom of the inserts. |
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7. The blade on my saw does not
retract low enough for the new insert to fit all the way down into the recess of the table. I installed the original insert and set the blade hieght to .1". I set my fence right on the edge of the insert and ran the new insert blanks over the blade. |
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Here you can see the cut
made in the bottom of the new inserts by the saw blade to allow seating the inserts into the table top.Here is the new insert fit into the table |
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8. Using a countersink in your
drill press, countersink the hole for the head of the insert mounting screw. Here is the finished zero clearance insert mounted in the table top. |
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9. Raising the blade to cut the insert.
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Park your table saw fence on top of the ZCI close to,
but not over, the blade of the saw. This is to prevent the ZCI from flying loose if it was to break during the cutting process. The front of the insert is held down by the mounting screw. These inserts do not have a hold down clip in the rear so I stuck the end of a small screw driver on the insert and under the fence at the very back end to hold the insert down tight. Set the angle of the blade you want this insert for. Mine is at 90 degrees. Turn on the saw and raise the blade very slowly, allowing it to cut through the new insert. Raise the blade to full height for a general purpose ZCI. For a specific usage, you may only want to cut the ZCI to a certain blade height for a project. |